Hanoi comes at you all at once. Motorbikes pour through streets a thousand years old, women in conical hats sell fruit from shoulder poles, and every pavement doubles as a kitchen, a workshop and a café. Vietnam's capital is noisy, tangled and completely absorbing, and somehow there is always a quiet lake or a temple courtyard around the next corner.
It is also one of the great eating cities of Asia, and most of the best food is served on a plastic stool. Give it three days: one to get lost in the Old Quarter, one for the monuments and museums, one for the food. Then head out to the limestone scenery that surrounds it.
Don't miss
The big sights
The Old Quarter
Neighbourhood

Photo: Richard Mortel from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, CC BY 2.0 The historic heart of Hanoi is a knot of narrow streets north of Hoan Kiem Lake, traditionally 36 of them, each named after the trade once practised there. Some still keep to the script: a street of silk, one of tin boxes, one of paper offerings. Tall, skinny 'tube houses' squeeze in above the shops.
There is no route to follow. Walk, dodge the scooters, stop for coffee, repeat. On weekend evenings the streets around the lake close to traffic and the whole quarter turns into a street party.
Tip: To cross the road, walk slowly and steadily and let the motorbikes flow around you. Do not stop or dart.
Hoan Kiem Lake
Landmark

Photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg, CC BY 4.0 The Lake of the Returned Sword is the centre of city life. At dawn the paths fill with joggers and tai chi groups; by evening it is couples and families. A scarlet wooden bridge leads to Ngoc Son Temple on a small island, and the little Turtle Tower in the middle of the water is the emblem of Hanoi.
Temple of Literature
Landmark

Photo: Jakub Hałun, CC BY 4.0 Dedicated to Confucius and founded in the eleventh century, this is the site of Vietnam's first national university. Five walled courtyards lead from a grand gate to ponds, pavilions and rows of stone tablets on the backs of carved tortoises, each recording the names of scholars who passed the royal exams. It is the calmest place in the city.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Landmark

Photo: CEphoto, Uwe Aranas, CC BY-SA 3.0 A stern granite monument on Ba Dinh Square, where Ho Chi Minh read the declaration of independence in 1945, and where his body now lies. Around it are the stilt house he lived in, the grand yellow Presidential Palace and the tiny One Pillar Pagoda, rising from a lotus pond on a single column.
Tip: Dress respectfully, with shoulders and knees covered, and expect to queue in silence.
Imperial Citadel of Thang Long
Landmark

Photo: katiebordner, CC BY 2.0 For centuries this was the seat of Vietnamese royal power, and it is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. What survives is a mix of old gates, archaeological digs and wartime bunkers, crowned by the Hanoi Flag Tower. History fans will get the most from it.
Museums and culture
Hoa Lo Prison
Museum

Photo: Richard Mortel from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, CC BY 2.0 Built by the French colonial government to hold Vietnamese political prisoners, and later used for captured American airmen, who nicknamed it the Hanoi Hilton. Only part of the complex survives as a museum. It is a sombre visit, and a direct way into the country's twentieth-century history.
Vietnam Museum of Ethnology
Museum
Vietnam is home to more than fifty ethnic groups, and this museum west of the centre tells their stories through clothes, tools and everyday objects. The garden is the best part: full-size traditional houses, including a towering communal house, that you can climb into. Children enjoy it as much as adults.
Water puppet theatre
Activity
Photo: Gryffindor, CC BY-SA 3.0 An art form that began in the flooded rice fields of the Red River Delta. Lacquered wooden puppets dance, fish and fight dragons on the surface of a pool, worked by puppeteers hidden behind a screen and accompanied by live traditional music. The best-known theatre is beside Hoan Kiem Lake, and shows are short enough for all ages.
Eat and drink
Pull up a plastic stool.
Pho and bun cha
Food

Photo: Weetjesman, CC BY-SA 4.0 Hanoi is the home of pho, and the northern version is a purist's bowl: clear, deeply savoury beef broth, flat rice noodles, spring onion and little else. It is breakfast here, eaten on the pavement before work.
Lunch belongs to bun cha: smoky grilled pork patties and slices of belly in a bowl of sweet, sharp dipping broth, with cold rice noodles and a heap of herbs on the side.
Egg coffee
Food

Photo: mmmmngai@rogers.com, CC BY-SA 2.0 Ca phe trung is a Hanoi invention: strong Vietnamese coffee topped with a thick, sweet foam of whipped egg yolk and condensed milk. It tastes like a liquid tiramisu and arrives sitting in a bowl of hot water to keep it warm. Order it in one of the old cafés hidden up staircases around the lake.
Bia hoi
Nightlife
Fresh draught beer, brewed daily, light and cheap, drunk on tiny stools at street level. The junction of Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen in the Old Quarter is the famous spot and gets very lively at night. It is the easiest place in Hanoi to end up talking to strangers.
Lakes and markets
West Lake and Tran Quoc Pagoda
Nature

Photo: Jakub Hałun, CC BY 4.0 Hanoi's largest lake lies north-west of the centre, with a long shoreline of cafés, villas and seafood restaurants. On a small island reached by a causeway stands Tran Quoc, regarded as the oldest Buddhist pagoda in the city, its red brick tower rising above the water. Come towards sunset.
Dong Xuan Market
Market
The biggest covered market in the Old Quarter is a wholesale hall stacked to the roof with fabric, clothes, dried goods and household everything. It is more about watching the city do business than shopping for souvenirs, and the food stalls in the alleys around it are excellent.
Day trips
Ha Long Bay
Day trip

Photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg, CC BY 4.0 Thousands of limestone islands and pillars rising out of green water in the Gulf of Tonkin: a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Vietnam's most famous view. Day trips from Hanoi are possible but long. An overnight cruise is far better, giving you sunset, dawn and a quieter bay.
Ninh Binh
Day trip

Photo: Jakub Hałun, CC BY 4.0 Often described as Ha Long Bay on land. South of Hanoi, the same limestone peaks rise out of rice paddies and slow rivers instead of the sea. At Trang An and Tam Coc, rowing boats take you between the cliffs and through low caves. It is an easy day out and gorgeous when the rice is green.
Where to stay in Hanoi
Not sure which area suits you? Read our guide: Where to stay in Hanoi →

★★★★
Amazing Hotel Sapa
Lao Cai
Adults only · Spa · Pool
See prices and rooms →

★★★★
Anise Hanoi Hotel & Spa
Hanoi
Spa · 50 rooms · Parking
From £37 a night, taxes incl.2 adults · checked 14 Nov, 00:37

★★★★★
Fairmont Hanoi
Hanoi
Spa · Rooftop pool · Parking
See prices and rooms →

★★★★
Authentic Hanoi Boutique Hotel
Hanoi
50 rooms · Parking
See prices and rooms →

★★★★
Bamboo Sapa Hotel
Sapa
Spa · Pool · Parking
From £54 a night, taxes incl.2 adults · checked 14 Nov, 13:07

★★★★★
The Oriental Jade Hotel
Hanoi
Spa · Pool
From £121 a night, taxes incl.2 adults · checked 14 Nov, 19:22

★★★★
Bao Son International Hotel
Hanoi
Spa · Pool · Parking
From £60 a night, taxes incl.2 adults · checked 14 Nov, 06:52

★★★★★
Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi
Hanoi
Spa · Pool · Parking
From £260 a night, taxes incl.2 adults · checked 14 Nov, 00:37
Getting around
The Old Quarter and the lake are best on foot. For anything further, ride-hailing apps are the simplest option for both cars and motorbike taxis, and they fix the fare before you set off. A car is no use to a visitor here.
When to go
Autumn and spring are the most pleasant times, with mild temperatures. Summer is hot, humid and wet, with heavy downpours. Unlike the south of Vietnam, Hanoi has a real winter: cool, grey and often drizzly, so pack a layer.
Questions about visiting Hanoi
- What is Hanoi best known for?
- The streets of the Old Quarter, Hoan Kiem Lake, the Temple of Literature, street food such as pho, bun cha and egg coffee, and its position as the gateway to Ha Long Bay.
- How many days do you need in Hanoi?
- Two to three days is right for the city itself. Add a night or two for a Ha Long Bay cruise and a day for Ninh Binh.
- Is Hanoi worth visiting?
- Yes. It is one of the most atmospheric capitals in Asia, with a thousand years of history, superb food and some of Vietnam's best scenery within reach.
- What is there to do in Hanoi with kids?
- A water puppet show, the outdoor houses at the Museum of Ethnology, the weekend walking streets around Hoan Kiem Lake and a boat ride at Ninh Binh all work well with children.
More guides
- Where to stay in Hanoi
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