Edinburgh is a city built on drama. A castle perches on an extinct volcano, a medieval spine of tall stone tenements runs down to a royal palace, and across a valley of gardens sits the elegant Georgian grid of the New Town. Add a hill you can climb in an hour, a coast on the doorstep and a pub on every corner, and it's easy to see why people keep coming back.
It's also compact. Most of what you want is within walking distance of everything else, and the hills mean every second street ends in a view. Wear sturdy shoes for the cobbles and the climbs, pack a waterproof whatever the forecast, and leave room in the schedule for a long lunch.
Don't miss
The Old Town
Medieval Edinburgh, a maze of steep closes and tall stone tenements.
Edinburgh Castle
Landmark
Photo: George Washington Wilson / Adam Cuerden, Public domain The castle crowns a volcanic rock above the city, and its views are as good as its history. Inside you can see the Crown Jewels of Scotland, the Stone of Destiny, the medieval Mons Meg cannon and the tiny St Margaret's Chapel, the oldest building in Edinburgh.
The One O'Clock Gun still fires from the battery every day except Sunday.
Tip: Book ahead in summer and arrive at opening to beat the coach parties.
The Royal Mile
Neighbourhood
Photo: rboed*, CC BY 2.0 The long, steep street linking the castle to Holyroodhouse, packed with closes, tartan shops, whisky bars and St Giles' Cathedral. Walk it downhill, and duck into the narrow lanes off to either side, where the real Old Town hides.
Tip: Go early or late. The middle of the day is crowded.
Greyfriars Kirkyard
Landmark
An atmospheric old graveyard in the heart of the Old Town, home to the statue of Greyfriars Bobby, the loyal terrier who is said to have guarded his master's grave. Rub-your-hands-together cold on a winter evening, quietly lovely on a sunny morning.
Victoria Street and the Grassmarket
Neighbourhood
The curving, colourful Victoria Street drops from the Royal Mile down to the Grassmarket, a historic square beneath the castle with pubs, restaurants and independent shops. It's one of the prettiest corners of the city, and the best place to eat outside in summer.
The National Museum of Scotland
Museum
Free to enter and impressive, with galleries on Scottish history, natural history, science and world cultures. Look out for Dolly the sheep, the Lewis Chessmen and the soaring, light-filled Grand Gallery. The roof terrace gives a good view of the castle.
Hills, palaces and monuments
The Palace of Holyroodhouse
Landmark
Photo: Daniel Kraft, CC BY-SA 3.0 The King's official residence in Scotland, at the bottom of the Royal Mile. It was home to Mary, Queen of Scots, and you can wander the State Apartments, her bedchamber and the ruins of Holyrood Abbey next door.
Tip: The palace closes when the royal family are in residence, so check before you go.
Arthur's Seat
Nature
Photo: Ermell, CC BY-SA 4.0 An extinct volcano in the middle of Holyrood Park, rising to around 250 metres. The climb is steep but short, and the view from the summit takes in the whole city, the Firth of Forth and the hills beyond. Go at sunrise or sunset and you may have it to yourself.
Tip: Wear proper shoes and take a windproof layer: the summit is exposed.
Calton Hill
Landmark
Photo: Saffron Blaze, CC BY 3.0 A small hill with big views, covered in Neoclassical monuments, including the unfinished National Monument, modelled on the Parthenon. It's an easy walk from Princes Street and the best place for a sunset skyline.
The Scott Monument
Landmark
Photo: Ermell, CC BY-SA 4.0 The Victorian Gothic spire in Princes Street Gardens, built in memory of Sir Walter Scott. You can climb its narrow spiral stairs to a viewing platform with a classic view of the Old Town skyline.
Beyond the centre
Dean Village
Neighbourhood
Photo: Scglossop1, CC BY-SA 4.0 A former milling hamlet on the Water of Leith that feels a world away from the city. Walk down from the West End and follow the river path through woods and past old mills to Stockbridge, with its cafés, delis and Sunday market.
The Royal Botanic Garden
Nature
Photo: Ham, CC BY-SA 3.0 Seventy acres of gardens at Inverleith, with a glasshouse complex, a rock garden and wide views back to the Old Town. The grounds are free to enter and are lovely in any season.
The Royal Yacht Britannia
Landmark
Photo: Daniel Kraft, CC BY-SA 3.0 The former royal yacht, now moored at Leith, lets you walk the decks, the state apartments and the engine room. It's a charming glimpse of royal life at sea, and Leith's Shore is a good spot for lunch afterwards.
Eat, drink and festivals
Haggis, neeps and tatties
Food
Photo: Biology Big Brother, CC BY 2.0 Scotland's national dish: a peppery savoury pudding served with mashed swede and potatoes. Sounds odd, tastes wonderful, especially with a whisky cream sauce. Many places also offer a good vegetarian version.
Scotch whisky
Food
Edinburgh is full of whisky bars where staff will happily guide you from gentle Speyside to smoky Islay. You can also take a tour at the whisky visitor centre near the castle, which explains the regions and the flavours.
The Edinburgh festivals
Activity
Every August the city fills with comedy, theatre and street performers for the Fringe, alongside the International Festival, the Book Festival and the Military Tattoo. Hogmanay, the Scottish New Year, is another showpiece. Book hotels well ahead for both.
Day trips
Rosslyn Chapel
Day trip
Photo: Anthonyrandell, CC BY-SA 4.0 A 15th-century chapel in the village of Roslin, south of the city, covered inside in extraordinary stone carvings. It became world-famous through a certain bestselling novel, but its real appeal is the craftsmanship.
Stirling Castle
Day trip
Photo: DeFacto, CC BY-SA 4.0 A great Renaissance castle on a rock above the town, with a restored royal palace and a hall that kings once feasted in. It's under an hour from Edinburgh by train, and the Wallace Monument and the Bannockburn site are nearby.
North Berwick
Day trip
A little seaside town on the East Lothian coast with sandy beaches, a harbour and the Scottish Seabird Centre. Offshore, Bass Rock is white with a huge gannet colony. A quick train ride from Waverley.
The Forth Bridge
Day trip
The red cantilever railway bridge, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has spanned the Firth of Forth since 1890. Head to South Queensferry to see it alongside its two neighbours, the Forth Road Bridge and the Queensferry Crossing.
Where to stay in Edinburgh
Not sure which area suits you? Read our guide: Where to stay in Edinburgh →
★★★★
Angels Share Hotel
Edinburgh
31 rooms
See prices and rooms →
★★★★
Aparthotel Adagio Edinburgh Royal Mile
Edinburgh, United Kingdom
Pets allowed
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★★★★★
Witchery by the Castle
Edinburgh
See prices and rooms →
★★★★
Apex City Hotel
Edinburgh
Parking
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★★★★
Apex Grassmarket Hotel
Edinburgh
Pool · Parking
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★★★★★
The Balmoral
Edinburgh
Spa · Pool · Parking
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★★★★
Apex Waterloo Place
Edinburgh
Spa · Pool
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★★★★★
Kimpton Charlotte Square Hotel
Edinburgh
All-inclusive option · Spa · Family-friendly
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Getting around
Edinburgh is very walkable, though steep: the Old Town and New Town sit on different ridges, linked by stairs and ramps. Buses cover everything else, and trams link the airport to the centre. You won't need a car in the city, but hiring one makes the Scottish countryside easy to explore.
When to go
August is festival season, and the city is at its liveliest and busiest, so book early. May, June and September bring long light evenings and fewer crowds. Winter is dark and cold but atmospheric, with Christmas markets and Hogmanay. Whenever you come, pack a waterproof.
Questions about visiting Edinburgh
- What is Edinburgh best known for?
- Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile, the Old Town and New Town (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), Arthur’s Seat, whisky and its summer festivals, including the Fringe.
- How many days do you need in Edinburgh?
- Two or three days covers the castle, the Royal Mile, Holyrood and a walk up Arthur’s Seat or Calton Hill. Add a fourth for Leith, the botanic garden or a day trip to Stirling or North Berwick.
- Is Edinburgh worth visiting?
- Yes. It is compact, beautiful and packed with history, and it works as a city break in any season, with plenty of pubs, museums and viewpoints.
- Do you need a car in Edinburgh?
- No. The city is compact, walkable and well served by buses and trams. A car is only useful for exploring beyond the city, such as the Highlands.
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