Where to stay in Edinburgh: the best neighbourhoods and hotels

The Old Town is the Edinburgh of ghost tours and shortbread tins, and it lives up to the hype. The Royal Mile runs from the castle down to Holyrood Palace, past St Giles' Cathedral and countless dark, steep closes. Below the castle, the Grassmarket and curving Victoria Street are lined with whisky bars, antique shops and pubs that have been pouring pints for centuries.

Hotels make the most of the history. The Witchery by the Castle has a handful of gothic suites with four-posters and velvet walls; Virgin Hotels Edinburgh brings a playful modern touch close to the castle; Old Town Chambers sits steps from the Royal Mile; and The Inn on the Mile fills a former bank built in 1923. It's busy and noisy in summer, so pick a room at the back if you sleep lightly.

Princes Street is Edinburgh's great showpiece, with shops on one side and Princes Street Gardens on the other, the castle rearing up above them. At its east end, near Waverley station, stands the Balmoral, whose clock tower is a city landmark; at its west end, the Caledonian, a former railway hotel in the shadow of the castle. St Andrew Square, just behind, is the smart heart of the New Town.

Beyond those two grand dames, 100 Princes Street is a luxury townhouse with clear views of the castle, Gleneagles Townhouse brings the famous country hotel's polish to St Andrew Square with a rooftop bar, and Cheval The Edinburgh Grand has apartments with kitchens inside a restored bank. You can walk to the Old Town in minutes.

Built in the 18th century as an escape from the overcrowded Old Town, the New Town is a grid of honey-coloured terraces, private gardens and wide streets, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in its own right. George Street is the glamorous spine, lined with restaurants, cocktail bars and boutiques, while Stockbridge, down the hill, has a village feel and a Sunday market.

Kimpton Charlotte Square fills seven interconnected Georgian townhouses on one of the prettiest squares in town. The InterContinental Edinburgh The George has welcomed guests for more than 200 years, and Hotel Indigo occupies a Georgian townhouse nearby. Families will appreciate Eden Locke on George Street, whose apartments come with kitchens.

The West End is the New Town's quieter twin, with handsome Georgian crescents, the Usher Hall and Lyceum Theatre, and a cluster of good restaurants. Haymarket station, just beyond, has trains to Glasgow and the airport tram, and Murrayfield Stadium is a short walk on match days.

The Bonham is a stylish boutique hotel on a Georgian street; The Roseate sits in a calm residential area close to Haymarket and Murrayfield; and voco Edinburgh Haymarket is a modern option a short walk from Princes Street. The Murrayfield Hotel, between Haymarket and the zoo, has Victorian character and a quiet setting.

South of the Old Town, the city relaxes. The Meadows is Edinburgh's favourite park, Bruntsfield and Newington are full of independent cafés and neighbourhood restaurants, and Arthur's Seat and Holyrood Park are close enough for a morning hike. The Royal Mile is a walk or short bus ride away.

Prestonfield House is the romantic choice, a lavish country house about 3 km from the Royal Mile surrounded by gardens and a golf course, with its acclaimed Rhubarb restaurant. The Scott fills a 1750s baronial house with 37 rooms, no two alike; the Bruntsfield Hotel looks across Bruntsfield Links and the Meadows; and Ten Hill Place is a quietly smart option near Surgeons' Hall.

Leith was a separate town until 1920 and still acts like one. The Shore, its waterfront, is lined with seafood bistros and pubs, and the area has some of the most acclaimed restaurants in Scotland. The Royal Yacht Britannia is moored nearby, and the tram runs into the city centre.

Stay aboard Fingal, a luxury floating hotel with 22 rooms, a terrace and The Lighthouse Restaurant, or at Malmaison Edinburgh, a sociable hotel with a brasserie. Leith is less pretty than the centre but far more local, and evenings here are all about eating well.

If you have a car or an early flight, look beyond the centre. Marine North Berwick is a seaside hotel with a spa, views of the Bass Rock and the Firth of Forth, and North Berwick Golf Club practically on the doorstep. DoubleTree by Hilton Queensferry Crossing sits on the north shore of the Forth, within walking distance of the famous Forth Bridges, and the DoubleTree by Hilton Edinburgh Airport is handy for dawn departures. Inland, Falkirk has the Kelpies and the Falkirk Wheel.