Where to stay in New Zealand: the best places and hotels

Auckland is New Zealand's biggest city, spread across an isthmus between two harbours and dotted with extinct volcanic cones. The Sky Tower and the waterfront are the centre of the action, ferries hop out to the vineyards and beaches of Waiheke Island, and the city's restaurants reflect its huge Pacific and Asian communities.

Base yourself on the waterfront. SO/ Auckland has sweeping views across Waitematā Harbour; the Hilton Auckland sits right out on the water with balconies and walls of windows; QT Auckland is a playful hotel at Viaduct Harbour; and the Pullman faces leafy Albert Park, close to the university and the shops.

Queenstown is New Zealand's playground, a lively lakeside town ringed by mountains, where bungy jumping was turned into a business. Jet boats roar up the rivers, the Skyline gondola climbs above town, ski fields open in winter, and Milford Sound and the wineries of Central Otago are within reach. The bars and restaurants keep pace with the adrenaline.

Hotel St Moritz, an MGallery hotel, looks over Lake Wakatipu to The Remarkables; The Rees offers hotel rooms and luxury apartments by the lake; Peppers Beacon is a five-minute lakeside stroll from town; and the Hilton Queenstown Resort & Spa sits on the waterfront at Kawarau Falls.

Christchurch, the South Island's biggest city, has rebuilt itself with flair since the 2011 earthquakes, and its parks, river and street art make it a pleasant place to start a road trip. Beyond, Canterbury stretches from the Pacific to the Southern Alps, with the turquoise lakes of the Mackenzie Basin to the south-west and the whale-watching town of Kaikōura up the coast.

The George is a boutique hotel overlooking Hagley Park and the River Avon. Out in the country, Peppers Bluewater Resort looks across Lake Tekapo, famous for its starry night skies; Sudima Kaikōura sits on the shoreline with mountain and sea views; and Fable Terrace Downs has self-contained villas with views of the Southern Alps.

You smell Rotorua before you see it: a whiff of sulphur from the geysers, hot springs and mud pools that bubble up all over town. It is also the heart of Māori culture, with evening hāngī feasts and performances, plus redwood forests, lakes and mountain-bike trails. On the coast to the north, Mount Maunganui has a fabulous surf beach.

Prince's Gate Hotel overlooks the Government Gardens and the Polynesian Spa, right in the historic centre. The Pullman Rotorua is a smart, central choice; Hamurana Lodge is a boutique retreat near the Hamurana Springs, about fifteen minutes from town; and Pavilion Beachfront Accommodation puts you on the sand at Mount Maunganui.

Lake Taupō, the country's largest lake, fills an ancient volcanic crater in the middle of the North Island. Huka Falls thunders nearby, Craters of the Moon steams and hisses, and to the south the volcanoes of Tongariro National Park offer the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, a full-day hike past emerald lakes.

Sacred Waters has apartments right on the water's edge, with views across the lake to the volcanoes; Kinloch Manor and Villas is a luxurious retreat on the quieter western shore; Chalet Eiger is a five-star lodge within reach of Huka Falls; and Whakaipo Lodge is a peaceful bed and breakfast in the countryside.

Wellington is small, windy and hugely likeable. Its compact centre is squeezed between a harbour and steep green hills, with a cable car climbing to the Botanic Garden, Te Papa, the national museum, on the waterfront, and Cuba Street's cafés, bars and vintage shops. Ferries leave from here for the South Island.

The InterContinental Wellington has waterfront views and a club lounge; the Sofitel is a stylish, central five-star; and the DoubleTree by Hilton is a stone's throw from the cable car, close to Te Papa and Parliament. For an early flight, Rydges Wellington Airport sits right above the international terminal.

North of Auckland, the land narrows into a subtropical finger of beaches, forests and harbours. The Bay of Islands is the highlight: a sheltered bay dotted with islands, perfect for sailing, kayaking and dolphin spotting. At Waitangi, the treaty that founded modern New Zealand was signed in 1840, and the historic town of Russell is a short ferry ride from Paihia.

Eagles Nest is a multi-award-winning luxury retreat on a private ridge with sweeping views of the bay. In Paihia, the Paihia Beach Resort and Spa has six outdoor pools, and The Waterfront Suites are a short walk from the wharf and restaurants. Further north, Doubtless Bay Villas has individually decorated rooms and a tennis court.

The South Island's West Coast is a thin, rain-soaked strip between the Southern Alps and the Tasman Sea, and it is magnificent. The Franz Josef and Fox glaciers flow down towards the rainforest, the Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki blast spray through blowholes, and the TranzAlpine railway crosses the mountains to Greymouth.

In Franz Josef, Te Waonui is an eco-minded forest retreat and Rainforest Retreat sits in the village amid the World Heritage wilderness. Greymouth makes a good overnight stop, with Coleraine Suites and Alpine Rose, both well set up for road-trippers.

At the top of the South Island, Nelson is a relaxed, sunny town of artists, craft breweries and nearby vineyards. It is also the gateway to Abel Tasman National Park, where golden beaches and clear water make it perfect for kayaking and the coastal track.

DeLorenzo's Studio Apartments are right in the heart of Nelson, near Trafalgar Park. The Sails Nelson is a guesthouse with a terrace and garden, and The Waters Bed & Breakfast is a well-placed base with bikes to rent.