Where to stay in Tokyo: the best neighbourhoods and hotels

Shinjuku is Tokyo distilled. West of the station, skyscrapers house some of the city's best-known hotels; east of it, a maze of neon streets leads to Kabukicho's arcades and the tiny bars of Golden Gai. Shinjuku Gyoen, one of the city's loveliest gardens, offers an escape when it all gets too much.

For a first trip, it's hard to beat. Park Hyatt, the hotel from Lost in Translation, offers views of Mount Fuji from its top floors, and the Hilton and Keio Plaza sit in the west-side business district a few minutes' walk from the station. Kimpton is the stylish newcomer, with an art-gallery feel and a buzzy restaurant scene.

Shibuya is youthful, fashion-obsessed and permanently busy. The famous scramble crossing sends thousands of people in every direction at once, and the streets around it are packed with shops, izakaya and bars. Harajuku, one stop north, adds the quirky boutiques of Takeshita Street and the forested calm of Meiji Jingu Shrine.

Hotels make the most of the views. The Cerulean Tower is five minutes' walk from the station, with Harajuku a two-minute train ride away, and the Shibuya Excel Hotel Tokyu is connected directly to the station and looks over the crossing. Hotel Indigo sits high above the action, and the Trunk Hotel, steps from Yoyogi Park, is small, stylish and has an outdoor pool.

Wedged between Tokyo Station and the moats of the Imperial Palace, Marunouchi and Otemachi are the corporate heart of Japan: wide, tree-lined avenues, glass towers and the restored red-brick station. It's calm in the evenings and superbly connected, with bullet trains leaving from the station on your doorstep.

This is where Tokyo keeps its most rarefied hotels. Aman Tokyo occupies the top floors of the Otemachi Tower beside the station; the Peninsula faces the palace and Hibiya Park, minutes from Ginza; the Shangri-La sits high above Tokyo Station with a 20-metre indoor pool; and the Four Seasons at Otemachi is a short drive from the palace. Hoshinoya, nearby, is a luxury ryokan with its own hot springs.

Ginza is Tokyo dressed up: flagship stores, grand department stores, art galleries and some of the world's most revered sushi counters. On weekend afternoons the main street closes to traffic and the whole city seems to stroll it. Nihonbashi, to the north, is Tokyo's historic merchant quarter, with old shops and the Mitsukoshi flagship.

Mandarin Oriental is the pick for a splurge, in the Nihonbashi commercial district and an eight-minute walk from Tokyo Station. Ginza has excellent mid-range options: the Mitsui Garden Ginza Premier is a short walk from Ginza Six, the Celestine is a smart, upscale choice, and Hotel Gracery sits right next to Ginza Six, three minutes from the station.

Roppongi has grown up. It's still famous for its late-night bars and clubs, but Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown have added major art museums, smart restaurants and shopping, and Tokyo Tower stands a short walk away. Neighbouring Akasaka and Toranomon are quieter business districts, now full of striking new skyscrapers.

The Grand Hyatt sits in the heart of Roppongi, with Ginza close by. In Toranomon, the Andaz occupies the top of Toranomon Hills, and the Okura Tokyo pairs a restrained Heritage wing with a modern Prestige tower. The Capitol Hotel Tokyu in Akasaka is beside four subway lines, with Ginza and Roppongi 15 minutes away. For value, the Mitsui Garden Roppongi Premier is five minutes from Roppongi station.

If your mental image of Japan involves temples and paper lanterns, head here. Asakusa is home to Sensoji, the city's oldest temple, reached along the souvenir stalls of Nakamise-dori, with Tokyo Skytree soaring across the Sumida River. Ueno, a short ride away, has a huge park with museums, a zoo and cherry blossoms in spring.

Hotels are smaller and better value than in the centre. Nohga Hotel Ueno is a short walk from Ueno Park, with bikes to borrow and a bistro. THE skM Tokyo is an intimate 24-room hotel a short drive from Skytree and Sensoji, and &here Tokyo Ueno and Hotel Amanek Asakusa are simple, comfortable bases.

Shinagawa is Tokyo's southern gateway. Bullet trains to Kyoto and Osaka stop here, and the station has fast links to Haneda Airport, which makes it a practical first or last night. It isn't the most atmospheric part of town, but you're never more than a few stops from Shibuya or Ginza.

The hotels are large and good value for space. The Grand Prince Takanawa has a spacious garden five minutes' walk from the station, its sister Shin Takanawa sits up the hill with balconies on every room, and the Shinagawa Prince faces the station with an aquarium and bowling on site. Pullman Tamachi, a stop away, connects straight to the station.

Out on the bay, Tokyo loosens its tie. Odaiba, an artificial island, has seaside promenades, malls, an indoor theme park and a famous view of Rainbow Bridge with the skyline behind it. Toyosu, across the water, is home to the city's fish market and KidZania.

Hilton Tokyo Odaiba has sweeping 180-degree views over the bay, and the InterContinental Tokyo Bay looks back over the water to the towers. The Fairmont adds an infinity pool and spa, while Mitsui Garden Toyosu Premier is a ten-minute walk from LaLaport and KidZania. It's a little out of the way, so families and repeat visitors get the most from it.