Where to stay in Zermatt: the best areas and hotels

Bahnhofstrasse runs from the railway station through the heart of the village, lined with watch shops, ski-hire stores, bakeries, restaurants and bars, with the Gornergrat railway departing just across from the main station. Wander off it and you're into the Hinterdorf, the oldest part of the village, where weathered wooden granaries stand on stone stilts. St Mauritius Church and the Matterhorn Museum are close by.

This is where Zermatt's grand old hotels stand. The Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, founded in 1879, sits in its own park on the main street with Matterhorn views, and the Mont Cervin Palace has a spa, an indoor pool and three restaurants. The Schweizerhof has an indoor pool and is close to the station, and the quirky Post is a design hotel with its own bars and clubs, so you won't have to go far for a nightcap.

At the southern end of the village, the Matterhorn Express and the Furi gondola carry skiers and hikers up towards Trockener Steg and Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, the highest cable car station in Europe, and on over the border to Cervinia. Staying here means less clumping through the streets in ski boots, and at the end of the day you can ski back down towards your hotel.

Choose from the Berghof, right next to the cable car, with traditionally furnished rooms and an indoor pool with a waterfall; the family-friendly Alpenblick Superior, steps from the gondola; the historic Walliserhof 1896, with two hot tubs and a sauna; and Luxury Residence Colosseo, with a spa, a few steps from the lifts. The main street is a 10-minute stroll away.

For the full Alpine fantasy, stay on the mountain itself. A handful of hotels sit on the slopes above and around the village, so you can clip into your skis at the door and glide home at the end of the day. Up at Riffelberg on the Gornergrat line, Riffelhaus 1853 has ski-in, ski-out access, a spa and an outdoor pool with the Matterhorn straight ahead.

Back towards the village, CERVO is a boutique resort of six chalets, each with its own spa, and Resort Hotel Alex is a ski-in, ski-out spa hotel with an indoor pool and a health club. The Alpenlodge sits on a sunny slope on the edge of Zermatt, with a Zen-style spa and panoramic views. Expect peace, starry skies and a little uphill walking after dinner.

Zermatt's side lanes climb quickly, and a five-minute walk from the main street brings you to quiet corners with the best views in the village. Schönegg is reached through a tunnel and a lift from the street and looks out over the rooftops to the Matterhorn. Hotel Matterhorn Focus has rooms designed by the Swiss artist Heinz Julen, most of them facing the peak, and a luxurious spa area.

For something homelier, Bella Vista is a family-run hotel where the owner bakes the croissants himself and there are 35 kinds of tea, with panoramic mountain views from the terrace. The BaseCamp, a few minutes' walk from the centre and close to the ski bus, has a sauna and a fireside lounge.

Zermatt is car-free, so drivers leave their cars in Täsch, about 5 km down the valley, and catch the frequent shuttle train up to the village. Staying here is the savvy choice if you're on a budget or driving: prices are lower and parking is simple, and the Matterhorn still peeks over the end of the valley. Pick the Walliserhof, with underground parking, or the Täscherhof, a golf hotel with a fine Swiss restaurant and modern rooms with sunny balconies.