Where to stay in Phuket: the best beaches and hotels

Patong is Phuket's biggest and busiest resort, a long sweep of sand backed by a town that never really goes to sleep. After dark, the action centres on Bangla Road, a pedestrianised strip of bars, clubs and neon that is either the best or worst thing you'll ever see, depending on your age and mood.

By day, it is a perfectly decent beach with every watersport you can imagine. If you want to be in the thick of it, The Bloc sits right on the seafront near Bangla Road; the Holiday Inn Resort is a reliable family base in the heart of town. For a calmer stay, Amari Phuket hides on a leafy headland a short stroll from the beach, while Graceland, a huge resort at the start of Patong Beach, has rooms with two beds that suit families. Phuket airport is about an hour away by car, depending on traffic.

Just south of Patong, Karon and Kata are where families come back to year after year. Karon's beach is long, wide and golden, with plenty of room for sandcastles; Kata, over the headland, is smaller and prettier, with a lively little town of cafés and restaurants and surf schools when the waves pick up.

The hotels suit young families particularly well. The Pullman Karon sits in 75 acres of gardens with five pools, one with a kids' slide; the Centara Karon is a three-minute walk from the sand; and Sugar Marina's Kata hotels have playful pools by the dozen. Hotel Ikon is a stylish, good-value pick steps from Karon Beach. Kata Noi, the next bay south, is the quietest of the lot.

Kamala is what many people wish Patong were: a broad, sandy bay with a relaxed village behind it and a sprinkling of beach bars, but none of the madness. It lies about 15 minutes north of Patong, close enough for a big night out, far enough for a decent night's sleep. Phuket FantaSea, the island's big evening show, is just behind the town.

The headlands around the bay hold some of Phuket's most glamorous hotels. The InterContinental sits right by the sea, The Naka's pool villas hang over Kamala Bay, and Namaka's hillside rooms look down across the beach. The Palms is a simpler, good-value option steps from the sand.

Bang Tao is one of the longest beaches on Phuket, a six-kilometre arc of white sand and clear water on the north-west coast. Much of it is taken up by the Laguna complex of resorts and lagoons, and the rest by stylish beach clubs and some of the island's most upmarket hotels. Surin, just south, is smaller and more sheltered, with fine sand and a smart, villa-heavy crowd.

Twinpalms Tented Camp offers luxury under canvas right on Bang Tao's sand; Kora is a beach resort a minute from the beach; and the Mövenpick sits between the Laguna and the sea, with plenty to keep families busy. In Surin, the Outrigger is a boutique resort on the edge of the beach.

The north of the island is Phuket at its most peaceful. Nai Yang's beach is shaded by casuarina trees and protected as part of a national park, with seafood shacks under the trees and planes gliding over on their final approach. The airport is just minutes away, which makes it ideal for a first or last night, or for families who would rather not face a long transfer.

Bella Nara is a few steps from Nai Yang Beach, with a kids' club and free bikes; Sugar Marina's Lagoon Villas is a relaxed, recently revamped resort nearby; and La Green, close to Layan Beach, is built for families and groups.

Down at Phuket's southern tip, the pace drops. Rawai is a sprawling, low-key village with a seafood market and boats heading out to the little islands offshore, and many long-stay visitors call it home. Promthep Cape, the headland at the very bottom of the island, is where everyone gathers to watch the sun sink into the sea.

Nai Harn is the pick of the beaches, a sandy bay backed by forested hills and a freshwater lagoon. The Wyndham Grand is right there, about 45 minutes from the airport. Elsewhere, smaller resorts such as Navatara, with pool-access rooms, and Le Resort and Villas offer good value a short drive from both beaches.

Chalong isn't a beach resort; it's where the boats leave from. Chalong Pier is the departure point for speedboats to the islands off the south coast, and the area is also home to Wat Chalong, the island's best-known temple, and the hilltop Big Buddha. Muay Thai and fitness camps draw a sporty crowd.

Hotels are mostly good-value villas and small resorts. Coco Retreat has individual villas in tropical gardens, a short walk from Tiger Muay Thai. From Chalong Bay, a 35-minute speedboat ride takes you to The Racha, a peaceful island resort of white villas on Batok Beach.