Where to stay in Bangkok: the best neighbourhoods and hotels

Bangkok grew up along the Chao Phraya River, and staying on its banks is the most romantic way to see the city. Rice barges and river taxis churn past, Wat Arun glows across the water at sunset, and many hotels run their own boats to the Skytrain and up to the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, sparing you the traffic entirely.

This is where Bangkok keeps its legends. The Peninsula has river views from every room; lebua at State Tower has spacious suites and some of the most famous rooftop bars and restaurants in Asia; and Chatrium Riverside runs a free shuttle boat to the Skytrain. Upriver in the historic Dusit district, The Siam is a lavish, antique-filled retreat within walking distance of the old royal palaces. The old city of Rattanakosin and backpacker hub Khao San Road are a short boat ride upstream from most riverside hotels.

If Bangkok has a centre, this is it. Siam is a district of colossal shopping malls, from Siam Paragon to MBK, linked by elevated walkways to the Skytrain interchange, while Ratchaprasong, a few minutes east, has CentralWorld, Gaysorn and the much-visited Erawan Shrine. It is easy, air-conditioned and brilliant for families, especially when the afternoon heat or rain sets in.

Hotels plug straight into the action. The Siam Kempinski has its own sky bridge into Siam Paragon; Centara Grand rises above CentralWorld, with a bar on the 55th and 56th floors; the Grand Hyatt Erawan links by sky bridge to two Skytrain stations; and the InterContinental is connected to Gaysorn Village.

East of Ratchaprasong, the city calms down. Ploenchit, Chidlom and Wireless Road are lined with embassies, grand residences and green spaces, and the quiet lanes of Langsuan run down towards Lumphini Park. It feels surprisingly serene for somewhere so central, with the malls and the Skytrain just a few minutes away.

Some of Bangkok's most exciting new hotels are here. Kimpton Maa-Lai is design-led and fashion-forward; Sindhorn Kempinski, a four-minute walk from Chidlom station, has 4,000 square metres of wellness facilities; and the Conrad has a tropical outdoor pool and a free shuttle to Phloen Chit station. Hotel Muse is a boutique hotel with lavish rooms, a few minutes from Chidlom.

Sukhumvit Road runs east for miles, with the Skytrain gliding above it, and the side streets (sois) that branch off it are where much of modern Bangkok lives, eats and parties. Nana and Asok, at the western end, are busy and brash, home to Terminal 21's food court, rooftop bars and the red-light strips of Soi Cowboy and Nana Plaza. Phrom Phong is smarter, with the EmQuartier and Emporium malls and leafy Benjasiri Park.

The Sofitel is a ten-minute walk from Terminal 21; the Mövenpick is on a quiet side street near the Asok interchange, with a free tuk-tuk shuttle; and KROMO is steps from both Asok and Phrom Phong. Emporium Suites sits directly above the Emporium mall, with spacious, sun-filled rooms that suit families and long stays.

A few Skytrain stops further east, Thong Lo (also spelled Thonglor) is Bangkok's most fashionable neighbourhood. Its long soi is packed with Japanese izakayas, third-wave coffee shops, cocktail bars and restaurants run by some of the city's most talked-about chefs, and the crowd is more well-heeled local than tourist.

Hotels here lean towards serviced apartments and residences, which suit longer stays and families. Ascott Thonglor has premium apartments right on Sukhumvit Road, the Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit, just off Thong Lo on Soi 57, comes with a pool and a nightclub, and Jasmine Resort, near Phra Khanong station, is a family-friendly city resort further along the line.

Silom and Sathorn form Bangkok's business district, but they are far more fun than that sounds. By day, office workers queue at street-food stalls and joggers circle the lake in Lumphini Park; by night, the Patpong market and the bars of Silom take over, and rooftop restaurants glitter from the tower tops.

SO/ Bangkok is a playful design hotel overlooking the park, created with Christian Lacroix; COMO Metropolitan is a calm, wellness-focused sanctuary on South Sathorn Road; and the W is on North Sathorn Road. On Surawong Road, close to Patpong, Le Méridien puts you near the nightlife, with an outdoor pool for the morning after.

North of Siam, Pratunam is Bangkok's great bargain bazaar, a warren of wholesale clothes stalls, street food and cheap-and-cheerful shopping. It's less polished than its neighbours but central, good value and well connected: the Airport Rail Link from Suvarnabhumi runs to Phaya Thai, just up the road.

Amari Bangkok is an urban retreat in the heart of Pratunam; the Pullman King Power has lively bars and restaurants and a resort-in-the-city feel; VIE is a boutique hotel steps from Ratchathewi Skytrain station; and The Sukosol faces Phaya Thai station, with the malls of Siam a couple of stops away.

Bangkok's main airport, Suvarnabhumi, is a long way from the centre once the traffic builds, so a night nearby makes sense before an early flight or after a late landing. The Hilton Suvarnabhumi Golf Resort is about 15 minutes away, with an infinity pool, a spa and a free airport shuttle, and Crystal Srivaree is a luxury option a short drive from the terminal.

For something simpler, Blue Sky Residence Airport and O2 Luxury, in Bang Phli, have pools and good-value rooms near the airport. Flying with a budget airline? Check which airport you need: many domestic and regional flights use Don Mueang, in the north of the city.