Where to stay in Egypt: the best areas and resorts

Cairo is loud, dusty, enormous and absolutely unforgettable. The Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx rise on the western edge of the city, the Egyptian Museum's treasures fill downtown, and the medieval lanes of Khan el-Khalili and Islamic Cairo smell of spices and shisha. Give it at least two full days.

The classic base is beside the Nile downtown, where the big hotels look out over the river. The Semiramis InterContinental is next to the Egyptian Museum with a rooftop pool, the Nile Ritz-Carlton has a spa and outdoor pool, and the Ramses Hilton is set on the riverbank with a dedicated family programme. Sofitel El Gezirah stands on the tip of Gezira island in leafy Zamalek. The Pyramids are across the city in Giza, so allow time for the traffic.

Luxor sits on the site of ancient Thebes, and the monuments are staggering. On the east bank are the vast temple complex of Karnak and Luxor Temple, beautifully lit at night; across the river, the west bank holds the Valley of the Kings, the temple of Hatshepsut and the Colossi of Memnon. Sunrise balloon flights over it all are a highlight.

The Sofitel Winter Palace, built in 1886 in royal gardens overlooking the Nile and the west bank, is the hotel of legend, with the Pavillon Winter in the same gardens. The Hilton Luxor Resort & Spa has a peaceful water's-edge setting, and the Sonesta St. George is a short distance from Luxor Temple with majestic river views from its terrace.

Aswan is the most relaxed and beautiful spot on the Nile. The river narrows between golden dunes and granite islands, feluccas glide past at sunset, and colourful Nubian villages line the west bank. It's the gateway to Philae Temple and the extraordinary Abu Simbel, and most Nile cruises begin or end here.

The Old Cataract is one of the world's great historic hotels, with French cuisine at its 1902 restaurant, a spa and views over the river. The Mövenpick on Elephantine Island has balconies over the Nile and a panoramic restaurant, and the Pyramisa sits on its own private island set in 28 acres of gardens. The Tolip has Nile views in the heart of town.

At the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula, Sharm el Sheikh sits beside some of the best coral reefs in the world, with Ras Mohammed National Park and the Straits of Tiran a boat ride away. Many hotels have reefs right off their own beaches, so you can snorkel before breakfast. Naama Bay, the resort's heart, buzzes with bars and restaurants after dark.

Cleopatra Luxury Resort and the Novotel are in the heart of Naama Bay, both with private beaches. Sultan Gardens is on Shark's Bay, overlooking the coral and Tiran Island, and the Domina Coral Bay is a vast complex with two kilometres of private beach, a dive centre and a casino.

Hurghada is the Red Sea's original resort city, with a lively centre, marina and long stretches of beach, and sheltered bays to the south with some of the biggest resorts in Egypt. The beaches here are generally sandier than Sharm's, which suits families with small children, and the reefs and islands offshore are an easy boat trip away.

The Hilton Hurghada Plaza is on a private beach three minutes from downtown, every room with a sea-view balcony. Desert Rose has a kilometre of beach and a natural lagoon, Cleopatra Luxury Resort in Makadi Bay is a sprawling resort for watersports lovers, and the Kempinski in Soma Bay is the polished choice, about 45 km from the airport.

Marsa Alam is the Red Sea as it used to be: a long, empty coastline of desert mountains and pristine reefs, where turtles graze in the bays and divers come to look for dolphins and dugongs. It's quieter than Sharm or Hurghada, with resorts spread far apart, so it's best for those happy to stay put.

The Novotel overlooks the sea with three pools, a private beach and a kids club. Around the marina at Port Ghalib, the Marina Resort has three pools and a private beach, and the Steigenberger Alaya has five pools 15 minutes from the Blue Lagoon. True Beach, in the far south, has uninterrupted sea views and a family-friendly area.

Founded by Alexander the Great, Alexandria has a very different feel from the rest of Egypt: a long seafront Corniche, Greco-Roman ruins, the striking modern Bibliotheca Alexandrina and old cafés with a whiff of Mediterranean melancholy. West along the coast, the beach resorts of El Alamein and Almaza Bay are where Egyptians spend their summers.

The Hilton Alexandria Corniche puts you in the historic heart of the city, with a free shuttle to a private beach, and the Sheraton Montazah has its own beach near the Montazah gardens. Out on the North Coast, the Rixos Premium Alamein is an all-inclusive with a private beach, and the Jaz resorts of Almaza Bay sit on soft white sand.