Seoul does everything at full volume. Royal palaces sit a few streets from glass towers, grandmothers fry mung bean pancakes under strip lights while the next neighbourhood queues for the latest dessert craze, and the whole city seems to stay up long past midnight. It is big, fast and endlessly entertaining.
The Han River splits it in two. The old city, with the palaces, markets and mountain views, is to the north; glossy Gangnam is to the south. A superb subway ties it all together, and the hills that ring the centre mean a proper walk in the woods is never far away.
Don't miss
The big sights
Gyeongbokgung Palace
Landmark

Photo: Basile Morin, CC BY-SA 4.0 The grandest of Seoul's royal palaces, built by the Joseon dynasty at the foot of Mount Bugak. Gate follows courtyard follows throne hall, with the mountain rising behind and the office towers of the modern city in front. The pavilion of Gyeonghoeru, standing in its own lake, is the loveliest corner.
A costumed changing of the guard takes place at the main gate, and you will see plenty of visitors in rented hanbok, the traditional dress, which makes the courtyards look even better.
Changdeokgung Palace
Landmark

Photo: lumoplank, CC0 Smaller and more graceful than Gyeongbokgung, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of the way its buildings follow the lie of the land. The highlight is the Secret Garden behind it: a wooded royal retreat of ponds and pavilions that is seen on a guided visit.
Tip: Places in the Secret Garden are limited, so book ahead in spring and autumn.
N Seoul Tower
Landmark

Photo: Rtflakfizer, CC BY-SA 4.0 The communications tower on top of Namsan, the wooded hill in the middle of the city, is Seoul's favourite viewpoint. You can walk up through the park or take the cable car, and the terraces at the base are thick with padlocks left by couples. Go late in the afternoon and watch the city light up.
Dongdaemun Design Plaza
Landmark

Photo: lumoplank, CC0 A huge, silvery curve of a building by Zaha Hadid that looks as though it has just landed among the wholesale fashion markets of Dongdaemun. Inside are exhibition halls and design shops; outside it is best after dark, when the metal skin glows and the markets around it are in full swing.
Lotte World Tower
Landmark
The tallest building in South Korea spikes up from Jamsil in the south-east, with the Seoul Sky observatory near the top and a vast shopping centre at the bottom. Next door is Lotte World, a large theme park with indoor and outdoor sections that keeps families busy for a day whatever the weather.
Neighbourhoods to wander
Bukchon Hanok Village
Neighbourhood

Photo: Basile Morin, CC BY-SA 4.0 On the slope between the two main palaces, hundreds of traditional hanok houses with curved tiled roofs line steep, narrow lanes. Many are now teahouses, galleries and guesthouses; many more are still homes. The view down the lanes to the modern skyline sums up the city in one frame.
Tip: People live here. Keep your voice down and stick to visiting hours on the residential lanes.
Insadong
Neighbourhood
The old arts and antiques quarter, built around one main street and a maze of alleys behind it. Shops sell calligraphy brushes, ceramics and handmade paper, and the back lanes hide traditional teahouses and restaurants. It is the easiest place in town to buy a souvenir you will actually keep.
Myeongdong
Neighbourhood

Photo: Sgroey, CC BY-SA 4.0 Seoul's best-known shopping district is a pedestrian grid of cosmetics shops, fashion chains and flashing signs. As evening falls, street-food carts roll in selling everything from grilled lobster tails to egg bread. It is crowded and commercial, and first-time visitors love it.
Hongdae
Nightlife
The area around Hongik University is the city's youth-culture engine: buskers and dance crews on the street, indie clothes shops, themed cafés, and bars and clubs that barely get going before midnight. Come for the atmosphere even if you are not staying out late.
Eat and drink
Gwangjang Market
Market

Photo: Bgag, CC0 One of the oldest traditional markets in Korea, and the best place to eat on a stool. The central aisles are lined with stalls frying bindaetteok, crisp mung bean pancakes, and rolling mayak gimbap, tiny seaweed rice rolls that live up to their addictive reputation. Point, sit, eat.
Korean barbecue
Food

Photo: moso, CC BY 2.0 Meat grilled at your own table, wrapped in lettuce with garlic and chilli paste, surrounded by a spread of small side dishes that keep being refilled. Pork belly, samgyeopsal, is the everyday favourite; marinated beef is the treat. It is a group sport, and one of the great pleasures of the city.
Outdoors
Cheonggyecheon Stream
Nature

Photo: Basile Morin, CC BY-SA 4.0 A stream that once ran buried beneath an elevated motorway, uncovered in the 2000s and turned into a long sunken walkway through the centre. Stepping stones, waterfalls and willow trees sit a few metres below the traffic. It is a lovely place to cool off on a summer evening.
Bukhansan National Park
Nature

Photo: Raphael Duprat, CC BY-SA 4.0 Granite peaks, forest trails and Buddhist temples on the northern edge of the city, reachable by public transport. Hiking is a national passion, and on a fine weekend the paths are full of walkers in immaculate kit. The climbs are steep and the views over Seoul are huge.
Day trips
The DMZ
Day trip

Photo: Lance Vanlewen, CC BY-SA 4.0 The Demilitarized Zone that has divided the Korean peninsula since 1953 lies north of Seoul, and guided tours take visitors to observation points looking into North Korea and to related sites along the border. It is a sobering, fascinating day, and it can only be done with an organised tour.
Tip: Take your passport, and expect itineraries to change at short notice.
Suwon Hwaseong Fortress
Day trip

Photo: Bernard Gagnon, CC0 South of Seoul, the city of Suwon is wrapped in an eighteenth-century fortress wall with grand gates, watchtowers and command posts. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you can walk long stretches of the ramparts above the modern streets.
Where to stay in Seoul
Not sure which area suits you? Read our guide: Where to stay in Seoul →

★★★★
Aloft Seoul Gangnam
Seoul
Pets allowed · Parking
See prices and rooms →

★★★★
Aloft Seoul Myeongdong
Seoul
Parking
See prices and rooms →

★★★★★
THE GRAND LOTTE SEOUL - Formerly Lotte Hotel Seoul
Seoul
Spa · Pool · Parking
See prices and rooms →

★★★★
Amid Hotel Seoul
Seoul
Parking
See prices and rooms →

★★★★
Arirang Hill Hotel Dongdamun
Seoul
Parking
See prices and rooms →

★★★★★
Four Seasons Hotel Seoul
Seoul
Spa · Pool · Family-friendly
See prices and rooms →

★★★★
Baiton Hotel
Seoul
Parking
See prices and rooms →

★★★★★
JW Marriott Dongdaemun Square Seoul
Seoul
Spa · Pool · Parking
See prices and rooms →
Getting around
The subway is clean, frequent, signed in English and goes almost everywhere. Buy a rechargeable T-money card and use it on buses too. Taxis are plentiful. Note that Google Maps is limited in South Korea; local map apps work far better for directions.
When to go
Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with cherry blossom in April and vivid leaves in late October and November. Summers are hot, humid and rainy; winters are dry and properly cold.
Questions about visiting Seoul
- What is Seoul best known for?
- Royal palaces such as Gyeongbokgung, the hanok houses of Bukchon, shopping in Myeongdong, street food and Korean barbecue, K-pop culture and its closeness to the DMZ.
- How many days do you need in Seoul?
- Four days is a good first visit: two for the palaces, Bukchon and the markets, one for Namsan, Hongdae or Gangnam, and one for a day trip to the DMZ or Suwon.
- Is Seoul worth visiting?
- Yes. It mixes centuries-old palaces with some of Asia's best food, shopping and nightlife, and it is easy and safe to get around.
- What is there to do in Seoul with kids?
- Lotte World theme park, the changing of the guard at Gyeongbokgung, the cable car up to N Seoul Tower and a walk along Cheonggyecheon Stream are all good with children.
More guides
- Where to stay in Seoul
- The best things to do in London
- The best things to do in Edinburgh
- The best things to do in Manchester
- The best things to do in York
- The best things to do in Amsterdam
- The best things to do in Birmingham
- The best things to do in Liverpool
- The best things to do in Bristol
- The best things to do in Barcelona
- The best things to do in Budapest
- The best things to do in Cambridge
- The best things to do in Dublin
- The best things to do in Krakow